I drove back to Kuching town via the 2nd link (Tanah Putih toll bridge) after Menara Pelita the other day. I decided to drop by Yoshi Square (in Pending) for my lunch.
Being brought up in Kuching, we always come across specialty food from different dialects, like kolomee is from the Hakka, mee sua and kampua are from the Foochow and now this noodle dish comes from the Henghuas. It’s just being called ‘Henghua mee soup’. Very nice – handmade noodles, seaweeds, prawns, fish balls, lean meat and clear non-spicy soup.


A bit of History on the Henghua dialect group extracted from:
Southeast Asian Studies, Vol. 21, No.3, December 1983
The Chinese of Sarawak: Thirty Years of Change
by T’IEN Ju-K’ang*
Henghua is the historical name for a prefecture of southern Fukien covering the present districts of Put’ien and Hsienyu.
In Sarawak the Henghuas are often regarded as a small group because of the size of their population and the strength of their financial resources. According to the 1970 census they totalled 10,642, of whom 4,806 were in Kuching. Eighty percent of the Henghuas came from Hout’un and Kianghsia villages in Put’ien district (hereafter called sub-group A), the rest (20%) from Shangt’ien, Hsiangch’eng and several other small villages in the neighbourhood of Hout’un and Kianghsia (hereafter called sub-group B).
They came to Sarawak as late as the beginning of this century. Owing to historical disputes over fishing rights and irrigation facilities, these two sub-groups had already been feuding for a long time when emigration began. They carried their deep-rooted hatred to Kuching and when they initially lived together in Blacksmith Road often exchanged blows. Eventually, sub-group B, with the colonial government’s help, moved to Sungai Apong. Subsequently, sub-group A also moved, to Bintawa fishing village. Thus, the two groups lived quite far apart. Even now the older members of these groups are not on speaking terms, although the long-standing enmity has gradually been diminishing among the younger generation.
Initially both groups engaged in fishing, as they had done in China, but the hardship and severe competition within the dialect group forced some of them to eke out a living by pulling rickshaws when they were unable to go to sea. As they gave up fishing, they came into contact with some of the simpler mechanical jobs and began to monopolize the trade in selling and repairing bicycles, thus making the Henghua dialect the indispensable medium for such transactions everywhere.
So now you know why there are seaweed, prawns and fishballs in their soup coz they were fishermen once upon a time! Hmmmm… history is what made us today, don’t you agree?
May 13, 2009 at 4:42 pm
I’ve never seen Henghua before. No such thing in KL I think.
Why is Pending called Pending ar? I thought it was Pen-ding last time. Can also call it Pe-ning hehe.
May 13, 2009 at 8:38 pm
Jalan Pending is a very old name for the wharf area of Kuching. Maybe they haven’t decided on a proper name, thus the name still ‘pending’
Btw, your mum has ONE Henghua friend in the whole of Semenanjung!!
May 13, 2009 at 8:51 pm
Mum says I’ve eaten Henghua noodles before. =/
Oh yeah, she might be MIA for a while. The computer downstairs kamikazied.
May 14, 2009 at 11:50 am
Yo yo yo…what is this Henghua noodle, we just want 100% Made in “the” Kuching Kolo-Mee…no other substitution please…:)
May 14, 2009 at 12:14 pm
Oi! Oi! Oi! Kuching multi dialects society… can not keep promoting Hakka’s kolomee all the time!! – You must be a Hakka ein…
June 8, 2009 at 5:33 am
We Henghuas also call it “Pah Pah Min (mee)” because you “pah” (beat, i.e. knead) the dough to make it. The dough is wheat dough which is unusual for a people living so far south where the predominant cereal is rice. I believe that this is consistent with the theory that the Henghua speakers were originally from the north, and the vicinity of Xian has been suggested. The dialect has more affinity with northern dialects than Min dialects and one theory has it that it was used in religious context in the Xian royal court. A change of regime might have result in their banishment and relocation to the south, or they might have fled to escape the wrath of a new ruler. Their deity is a “Liu Lin Gong”, a dark skinned, fierce looking chap wielding a battle axe. Such a person was more likely to have been encountered on the Silk Road (Xian?) than in the coastal regions of FUjian. My mother used to make delicious Pah Min, with razor clams. Yum!
June 8, 2009 at 11:38 pm
Thank you Joe for your insightful information on the Henghuas.
There are so many things to learn about our Chinese roots leading back to China. I’m keen in learning about our different dialects, why certain dialect groups have certain characteristics, the different food diet, their physical build, etc etc and what makes them who they are today.
So thank you once again, Joe.
Cheers!!
June 27, 2009 at 11:48 am
Hi Joe,
I’m Henghua also. My husband & I love and miss Henghua food.
I have been searching high and low for the Pah Min recipe. My mom is the only one who can cook this but she refuses to teach us (cos she’s very old now).
Would you somehow have the recipe?
There is also another famous dish my mom cooks which is Gu Bak Liew (Beef Stew). Have you had it before?
Hope to hear from you or anyone else.
June 30, 2009 at 8:55 pm
Yea, i’m henghua and proud of this pak mee:-) Just cooked it last week and my hubby and girl love it so will be cooking again soon.
June 30, 2009 at 11:53 pm
Hi Linda,
Do you have any Henghua recipes you want to share with us? I enjoyed the Henghua noodles I had the other day. I don’t mind trying other Henghua specialties.
Thanks & cheers!
June 30, 2009 at 11:53 pm
All this talk about Pak Min makes me hungry!! Whenever you are in PJ, drop by at the Taiwan Noodle House in SS2, the chief cook is a henghua and they sell lovely Pak Min. Hot n Spicy, clear-soup, dried with minced meat, lots of varieties, using the henghua noodle. And they serve beef-stew too.
July 1, 2009 at 12:04 am
MUST GO! MUST GO! Next time I’m in PJ!!
I have yet to find more Henghua stalls in Kuching
July 20, 2009 at 11:30 am
Hi! Everyone
Greetings from Australia.
I missed Henghua noodles and all the Henghua food that I once loved. I lived at Jalan Pending when I was a young girl and my grandparents (a well known businessman in the Henghua community in the 1970/1980) used to run a Rice Milling Factory around the area, It would be nice if someone could posted some Henghua receipe in this website. Are there a lot of Henghua stalls in Kuching and where can we get the best Henghua Food Stall? CHEERS!
July 21, 2009 at 10:37 pm
Hi Mei Yinn,
Welcome to my travelogue!
Let me find some Henghuas in Kuching, be friend them and steal their secret Henghuas’ recipes and post it here…hehehehe…
It is difficult to find Henghuas in Kuching, let alone Henghua food stalls. But I’ll do my best to find some recipes to post it here.
Cheers Down Under!!
July 22, 2009 at 7:15 am
Hi everyone,
Have a great day!
Do you have receipes of typical Henghua “Bee Hoon”? Post it here.
Cheers!!!!!
May 13, 2009 at 9:17 pm
Henghua noodles in KL? Bring me there next time.
what else is new with your mum